Girl in a jacket

EYELINER TECHNIQUES AND LASH APPLICATION

Smudge Eyeliner Technique | Winged Liner Technique | Individual and Strip Lashes Applications

EYELINER TECHNIQUE

In this tutorial, we will talk about eyeliner. I’ll show you two different eyeliner techniques.

Here is a quick reference guide.

Jess applying the smudge eyeliner technique to her model in Academy of Makeup Artistry School in Merrylands Sydney
Always anchor yourself to the lid when using these eyeliner techniques

SMUDGE EYELINER TECHNIQUE

This is an easy eyeliner technique, and it doesn’t have to be precise. You could utilize gel, pencil, or even eyeshadow, whatever works for you. It’s a softer technique and works really well for more mature eyes with slightly hooded lids, or any eye shape that winged liner might not necessarily compliment.

Eyeliner technique – Equipment

I use a pencil because it’s a little bit more malleable.  You can smudge it out a little bit more and work the product into the skin.

Getting started with the smudge eyeliner technique

With this Smudge Eyeliner Technique, there’s a couple of different ways that this can play out. You can get your client to close their eyes and go directly into the lash line and draw the liner on. Generally, starting with a smaller width or smaller amount of product is a little bit easier, because then you have more space to actually smudge the product out.

Listen to your client

It’s also going to depend on your client and how dramatic or how soft they want it to be. As I said, you can go directly onto the skin and draw your liner in that way. Alternatively, you can actually get your angle brush and put the product onto the brush. And then you can draw the liner on like you would with a gel or a liquid or whatever else that you’d like to use. This is going to give you a little bit more precision. but like I said, we’re going to smudge this out, so you don’t need to be as clean with your application because you’re going to soften the edges anyway.

Start from the outer edge of the eye

Usually, when I’m doing these techniques, I start from the outer edge of the eye and work the product into the inner corner.

Take the product right into that inner corner

When I get to the inner corner, I like to get my clients to look straight down with their eyes open and look in the opposite direction. The reason why I also like to take the product into that area is that it creates a really nice seamless line for your liner. If you stop the liner further out, it can look a little bit disjointed, and it can kind of change the shape of the person’s eye.

And smudge…

So once I’ve got my liner done, then I’m going to start to smudge that out. I like to use a smaller finer brush to do this. However, you can use whatever brush that really suits you that you feel comfortable using.

Start by smudging the outer edge of the liner. Just kind of go directly on top of the liner, not dragging it too far up and out. Just take your brush back and forth and smudge it into the shadow. Always make sure that you’re anchoring yourself to the eyebrow or the lid space so you have a lot of control of what you’re doing. And then just smudge into the corner as well.

Jes, Graduate and trainer from Artistry of Makeup Academy, Merrylands, Sydney, instructing client to look down while she perfects her smudge eyeliner techniques
Instruct your client to look down.

Final adjustments for your smudge eyeliner technique

Once I’ve got a good indication of what it’s going to look like, I get my client to open their eyes so I can see how it’s looking with their eye shape. Then just go in and adjust in areas where that you feel need be smudged a little bit more.

Now, with the outer edge of the eyeliner, smudge that into the eyeshadow so it really seamlessly flows with the eye shape. To do this, rather than using my pencil brush I prefer to use eye shadow brush. Just smudge it a little bit more vigorously into the shadow. It’s just a little bit softer. It’s not as concentrated as using a smaller pencil brush.

Soften the line… or make it more intense

If you do want to soften the liner even more, once you smudge the liner, get a little bit of shadow or whatever shadow you’ve used on the outer edge of the eye makeup and kind of smudge it and use that to make the application a little bit more seamless. If you want it to be more intense, you could use, an alternative color.

Make sure that when you’re smudging, you’re transitioning along the entire lash line. So everything looks really similar and seamless. And a pencil brush really fits well in the corner because it’s nice, small, pointed and concentrated.

So there you go, a really beautiful smudge eyeliner

Depending on what your client is after, what their eye shape is, you might utilize one, two or three of those techniques that are involved in creating that kind of smudge liner.

Try the different types, see what works for you and see what techniques you like to use. Makeup is all about playing around. It’s all about finding the techniques that work for you. But here’s just a few tips to really help you create a really nice, beautiful smudge liner.

Using the smudge eyeliner technique. Training offered by artistry of makeup academy in Sydney Merrylands
Experiment until you get to the stage you feel comfortable with. Practice Makes Perfect!

WINGED EYELINER TECHNIQUE

Okay, so let’s talk about the winged liner. Winged liner can be a little bit scary for some people, it can be intimidating. But if you break it down into little steps, it can be quite achievable. And the more you practice, the better you’re going to get at it.

I’m going to show you how to break down winged liner application, so that it’s really achievable for you, especially when you’re first starting out.

Winged eyeliner technique demonstrated by trainer at Academy of Makeup artistry, training center in Sydney Merrylands
It’s not just about winging it! There’s actual technique involved!

What brushes to use in your winged eyeliner technique

In terms of brushes, I like to use an angled brush to apply my eyeliner. But you can use a range of different other brushes, the principle is still going to be similar though.

Basically, what you want to do is load the gel up on your brush back and forth of the brush to really concentrate the product into the bristles.

Start on the outer edge of the lash line

When I’m doing a liner, I like to start on the outer edge of the lash line, and then work the product into the inner corner. Keep in mind where the thinnest part of the brush is. This is where the finest point of the liner is going to sit. Start on the outer edge and drag the product into the center of the eye.

Edge the product into the inner corner

Go about halfway first. Once you’ve got that liner down, flip the brush around, and edge that product into the inner corner. Don’t put any more product on your brush, because you don’t want to deposit too much liner in the inner corner. There will be no way to blend in once it’s there. Gradually do little strokes and edge the product further and further into the inner corner. Then pop some liner into that inner corner as well. Do the same principle as the other side, you want to make sure you’re getting right into that to that tear duct so you get a really beautiful transition of liner.

Adjust the colors


Okay, so once you’ve got that liner down along the lash line, go in and add a little bit more color where you need to just to darken it up a little bit. And then the next step is to do the wing.

Do the wing

So again, remember that you should have enough product on your brush to do this. I always like to get my clients to look straight ahead when I’m doing a wing, just because I personally feel like you can get a really good symmetrical shape on both sides when you’re balancing it out.

It also means you’re going to be able to tell what the liner looks like when the person’s eyes open, which is really what we’re using as a guide when we’re doing makeup. No one walks around with their eyes closed, they all come with their eyes open. So that’s the goal!

Start with the finest point of your brush on the outer corner of the eye. Then draw a line starting at the outer edge of the eye and do it in-line with the lower lash line. As if it was going to meet the end of the eyebrow. Now don’t draw the line all the way out to the end of the eyebrow. Keep it a little bit closer to where the eye shape sits. Starting off doing a little small wing and then dragging it out is a lot easier than over-drawing the shape.

Do the same steps on the other eye, to ensure that you get the same symmetry on both sides.

Fill in the triangle

Once you’ve got your line, start with the finest point of your brush on the outer edge, to maintain that really nice thin liner, anchoring yourself to the brow bone, and then dragging the line to meet the line that you’ve just created. Once you’ve connected the line, then go in and color in that triangular liner shape. And make sure your lines are nice and dense and black.

Now at the point that you already have the shape, if you feel like you need to make any adjustments to make it longer, and thicker, I would do that now.

Filling in the triangle. Part of the winged eyeliner technique demonstrated by Jess. Artistry of Makeup Academy graduate and trainer based in Sydney Merrylands
Use a gel pen for extra precision

Hooded lids and the Winged eyeliner technique

You’ll find that sometimes when people have slightly hooded eyes, you will get a slight dip in the liner on the outer edge. To combat that, there’s a technique to achieve a really beautiful seamless line with the eye open, even on a hooded lid.

Come straight in with the eyes open and go across the dip in the liner and join that up to the liner that you’ve drawn across the lash line.

You’ll find that you’ll get what we call more of a bat-wing shape. So once you’ve got that shape, you just want to clean the liner up slightly by adding a little bit more color. And that’s how you create that really beautiful seamless liner for a hooded eye.

Now like I said before, it does give you more of that little bat-wing shape to the liner, but it does create a seamless line when the person’s eye is open. So that is really what you want to achieve when you’re doing a winged liner.

If you are doing winged eyeliner on someone that does have a hooded eye shape, this is a really good technique to do.

And usually, I would just make sure that I explain to my client what it’s actually going to look like before I’m doing it just so they are aware. Because sometimes people don’t always understand different techniques and how they look because they’re so used to comparing those images they see on social media where it might just be one seamless clean line.

While this technique looks seamless and clean, it does create a different shape that some people aren’t used to necessarily seen with eyeliner.

Okay, so now we’ve mastered our Eyeliner techniques we’re going to talk through mastering the basic techniques of Lash application.

LASH APPLICATION

Here we go through individual lash application as well as strip lashes.

INDIVIDUAL LASH APPLICATION

Individual lashes are a great option if you need to customize a lash for your client. You can use longer and shorter individual lashes to different areas to create the perfect kind of lash shape.

using individual lash application on model. Technique demonstrated by Jes, Graduate and trainer of Artistry of Makeup Academy, Merrylands, Sydney
Wait for the glue to get tacky!

Equipment needed for individual lash application

With individual lashes, using tweezers may give you more control but one can also use the fingers. It depends on the personal preference of the artist.

Get started with mascara

So with individual lashes, I like to apply mascara first. Every makeup artist may start with a slightly different product. However, mascara helps to lift the lash such that transitioning between your lash and the individual lash would be a little bit more seamless and cohesive.

Ask your client to lookup

Just in preparation for the product application, ask your client to look up to give the open side for the mascara. I like to apply a little bit on the bottom lashes while I’m at it.

Tip 1: Wait for the glue to get tacky

When you’re applying individual lashes similarly to strip lashes, you always want to make sure that you let the glue get tacky before you stick it onto the lash line. If you put wet glue onto the lash line, it’s not going to stick and will only come off. You are potentially going to get glue everywhere. You just want to let the glue start to get tacky for about 20 seconds.

Tip 2: Watch your hygiene

You can wave the strip lashed in the air to dry it out. Don’t blow on it. You don’t want the germs from your mouth going on to the lash that you’re about to stick on someone’s eye.

Start from the outer edge to the inner corner

So when I’m doing individual lashes, I generally start from the outer edge and work them inward.  The client should be closing her eyes, and you as the makeup artist should anchor onto the lid space. Get as close to the root of the lash as possible.

No fiddling after sticking and dropping the lash

It’s important that when you’re doing individual lashes, after sticking and dropping the lash, try not to fiddle around with them too much. Doing so, individual lashes will kind of come off or they’ll start to shift in a different direction. Make sure that you’re sitting individual lashes flat onto the lash line certain that it’s tacky. Pop that alongside the other ones as well.

Sort the lashes out

Some makeup artists use medium to long lashes on the outer edge and smaller ones in the inner corner. Naturally your lashes go longer to shorter but obviously that’s going to depend on your client as well. Some people can handle having medium long lashes in that inner corner because they already naturally have long lashes. Some people can’t. You must use your discretion based on the size of your individual lashes and the person’s lashes at most.

Even the lashes

Set lashes out evenly along the lash line and then go back in and add more on spaces where there is a need for a little bit more volume, length or whatever you think would improve how the lashes would look. Use the person’s natural lash as a guide in our tear duct area. Usually start or finish the lashes from about a finger’s width outside of the person’s eye shape, because it’s very uncomfortable to have lashes all the way into the inner corner. Use your discretion when you’re looking at the person’s natural lash and how it sits.

Adjust…Adjust

Once gaps are filled and you get satisfied with that, you may add a little bit of mascara as well. If you’re adding mascara on top of individual lashes, you need to be extremely careful with your application because it’s very easy to pull the lashes off. You want to make sure that before you go in with any mascara, the lashes are completely dry to avoid taking any individual lashes off with the mascara application process.

Apply the dramatic touch

Press mascara into the lash. Press it into the mid length of the lash and then into the ends of the lash to make it more dramatic. If you do want to add a little bit more depth go along the lash line, you can definitely go in with a little bit of eyeliner or a little bit of your shadow whatever you’ve used, just to deepen up that lash line.

STRIP LASH APPLICATION

So now we have a little bit more understanding about individual lashes, let’s move over to strip lash application.

Equipment

I prefer to use my fingers for strip lashes because I have more control. Choosing between tweezers or fingers, use whatever works for you.

Start with the exact lash measurement

So when you’re applying a strip lash, the first thing that you really need to do to ensure a successful application is actually measure the lash. So I like to get my clients to look straight down and I measure the lash out in line with their lashes. If it was too long, we would need to trim it so I generally would trim from the outer edge as opposed to the inner corner. The reason being is that you don’t want to end up with quite long lashes in the inner corner and the lash not be suitable for the person’s eye shape or the eye width. If you leave the last too long, what you’ll find is  that it will start to come up in sections because it doesn’t actually fit the eye shape. Always make sure that you are aware of this step before moving ahead and sticking the lashes on.

When clients look straight down….

Now the reason why I like to get my clients to look straight down is because the width of the eye looking down is a true reflection of the width of the eye when it’s open. When you close the eye the width of the eye, it will shrink. You may trim it if the lash is too short for the person’s eye shape. So once I’ve mentioned the lash out, I would trim it, if that was a necessary step.

Ensure the right band color

The next step that I like to do is actually color in the band of the lash. Some lash has an invisible band which means you can see the clear section in between the lashes. I do want to cover that, so I don’t have to fiddle around with it once it’s already on my clients. The best way to do this is stick the lash to the palette and just use a little bit of your gel line on. You could use a pencil liner as well and just coloring that invisible band.

Glue the very top of the lash

Then you’re just going to add the glue to the very top of the lash, not flat underneath. Put a glue on the very edge of the lash and make sure that you are concentrating some product on either end because they are your anchor points.  You need to let this lash get a little bit tacky before we stick it on. While it is getting tacky, I do like to bend the lash in a curved motion just to ensure that when I stick the lash on, it comes to the shape of the client’s eye.

Now, bending techniques may not necessarily be required when you’re using an invisible band of lash because they are a little bit more malleable. But definitely for lashes that have a thicker baseline, you do need to really kind of bend them in so it’s easier for your application.

Stick the lash

I get my clients to look straight down. I aim for the center of the lash and stick down the strip lash to the center of my lash. Then I aim to stick down to the end of my lash. And then I get my clients to look down and out in the opposite direction and stick down to the inner corner as well. Now if your glue is not tacky enough, if it’s still wet, you might find that different sections of the lash will pop up. Don’t freak it out, it’s totally fine. These things happen. It just means that you have to wait for the glue to get a little bit more tacky, a little bit more dry.

Press..Press..Press

I would just keep pressing the lash down until you ensure that everything is dry and ready to go. The strip lash that we’ve used today is definitely more of a natural lash that you can get and are strip lashes that are quite full as well.

Make it more dramatic

The same with individual lashes, you can get more natural and then more dramatic strip lashes. Today we’ve used slightly more volume as individual lashes. If you do want to create a little bit more volume and length with your strip lashes, you can again pop a little bit of mascara on. Press mascara into the middle length and then into the ends of the lash as well.  

Individual lash application demonstrated in class by Artisty of Makeup Academy, Sydney Merrylands

Careful with overloading

Now when you’re applying mascara up to your lashes, you don’t want to overload the lash with mascara pure purely because the lashes will start to clump together and they may look a little bit more spidery so you do want to be a little bit more gentle with your scar application when you’re using it on top of false lashes.

Thank you! 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about eyeliner techniques and lash application. If you are interested in learning more Sign -up for the FREE Makeup Essentials Kickstarter Course.

Want to learn more about professional Makeup Artistry?

Whether you want to have some fun and experience what it’s like to be a professional makeup artist, or dive right in and learn how to start your own business — there’s a course for you. Fill in the form below and we will send you all our course offerings or check them out here.

How to contact us?
Learn more about Artistry of Makeup Academy.
Stay Beautiful x

Leave a Comment